Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
